If Italian wine still has a best-kept secret, it would have to be Lugana, the seductive world-class white made on the southern shore of Lake Garda. Almost everything about Lugana defies Italian white wine stereotypes. While most of the country’s whites should be consumed immediately, Lugana is at its best two to three years after harvest, when many other white wines have faded. According to owner Michele Montresor, his Ottella vineyards’ heavy, compacted white clay and sand soil, on a bed of unconsolidated glacial debris, forces the vines to produce fewer grapes, the main reason for his Lugana’s poise and body. Made from 100% fastidiously hand-harvested Turbiana grapes, un-oaked, this wine is brilliantly fresh and vibrant, with lovely, mouth-watering green apple and tropical notes, deep, richly textured and balanced. It pairs wonderfully with salami, white meat, pizza, pasta and risotto, and is the perfect companion to fish and shellfish. We cannot say enough about this delicious wine, a wine of true character, refined and graceful with pure mineral energy and a long, resounding finish.