If you keep up with wine trends at all, you’ve probably tasted an Austrian Gruner Veltliner or two. Pinot Grigio lovers take to them for their crisp and refreshing qualities. But for folks who find Pinot Grigio to be a bit lean, Gruner typically offers a bit more ripeness and flavor. The inexpensive ones remain pleasant sipping wines that enhance a variety of foods. The Count Karolyi is a step up from the usual Gruner Veltliner without a step up in price. Interestingly enough, it hails from Hungary. Full and balanced in the mouth, the Count Karolyi has characteristics of chalk, lemon, white pepper and melon. The uncharacteristically long finish derives purely from the intensity of its fruit, not from the alcohol content, which is a modest 12 percent. Drink this with fish and shellfish, pasta primavera, egg dishes (it’s a perfect brunch wine) and pizza margarita.
|Served lightly chilled, this Gruner Veltliner is perfect on its own as an aperitif and also a wonderful accompaniment to shellfish and other seafood, veal, pork and other “white meat” dishes.