Wine Advocate 95 points - Just beginning to blossom, the 1998 is, for me, the finest Vieux-Telegraphe made in twenty years (since the 1978). A spectacular effort, it boasts a deep ruby/purple color and huge concentration, but it was very difficult to assess until a few months ago. I may be committing infanticide as most tasters should give this wine another 3-4 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15-20.
Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Telegraphe that was produced. It has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. It has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense, and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this full-bodied, powerful wine. It possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in terms of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo!