As a neutral-tasting wine-grape variety, Chardonnay is pretty much a blank canvas. In the hands of a talented winemaker with access to great terroir, it can be something quite special. Think of the great white Burgundies. Inexpensive Chard, on the other hand, is usually a big “meh.” Not so the 2012 Rotation Chardonnay from California. A deft blend of lightly oaked and unoaked juice (with 5% coming from the 2011 vintage to provide depth), this wine is rich and juicy, but not buttery or sweet in the least. At this low price point, it’s an extraordinary find. Try it with grilled mahi mahi and mango salsa, or something similar.